Friday, November 28, 2014

Photo Update: November

The brousse being burnt down.  At the very beginning of dry season, they burn most of the brousse.   There is still enough moisture that the fire won't spread.  If they don't burn the plants now, when it becomes very dry, it could cause a huge fire.  This could potentially do a lot of damages to homes and fields.
Sunset over Danfili


One of my favorite dishes: Koombee.  Cooked, mushed leaves eaten, of course, with couscous de manioche

On the edge of town

Many of the teenagers start making bricks during dry season.  It means mixing up a big pile of mud and putting it into the mold over and over again.  They can sell the bricks at 25CFA ($1 for 20 bricks).  This is what many of the homes and buildings in Danfili are made out of.

Homemade foleré (hibiscus) juice on a beautiful Sunday morning

The flower that foleré juice is made from

My counterpart's grandson, Abdu, and I

Nyandon hanging out with Abdu (his nephew)


Fadi and I in her manioche and peanut field.  This year is the first time she has ever worked in a field.  This is how she is able to take care of her children's school fees and supplies.

Brousse of Danfili: Dry season has arrived!

Village meeting with representatives from each trade (tailors, masons, drivers, etc.)  Danfili is in the process of raising money to add classrooms to the high school so that students can finish their schooling without leaving town.  Currently, we don't have the last two grade levels so it is difficult for students to get their "Bac".  During this meeting, each group proposed the amount of money they would contribute.  It was very encouraging because even those who are relatively poor did their best to put forth their contribution.


"Typical" Day in Danfili


People often ask me what a typical day looks like for me.  As most PCV’s will tell you, there really is no typical day.  As volunteers, our schedule swings from immensely packed with meetings and projects to completely empty for weeks on end.  One challenge of being a PCV is dealing with this varied work schedule.  Although I can’t pick out much of a pattern in the way I spend my days, I can try to give you a taste of one day of my life in Danfili all the same.

Tuesday, November 12, 2014:

Around 8am I get up.  Everyone else in Danfili has already been up since the morning prayer (read: 2-3 hours earlier).  After getting ready, I open my door and my cat comes running in.  Da has already left to work in her field and the girls have left for school.  I make myself oatmeal and coffee (which my amazing parents have sent from the states).  I do a short review of the presentation I will be giving at the hospital later.

10am, I show up at the hospital.  It’s a Tuesday, which means vaccination day.  All of the mothers bring their babies to be vaccinated on Tuesdays.  Because our health center doesn’t have a fridge, we are unable to store them and the vaccinations must be done on the same day every week.  Although everyone in town has been awake for hours, there are only three women at the hospital when I arrive.  I greet the hospital staff and sit with them for a while.  It becomes clear that it will be a while before the women start showing up and I can start my presentation. 

Luckily, one of the nurses, Julio, asks me if I am going to the meeting at the high school.  I am not aware of the meeting, but he explains that it’s a parent association meeting and I decide to tag along.  Julio has a son and daughter at the high school and he is part of the parent association.  The school is about ten minutes away and while we walk, we talk about American politics and he tells me “Clinton was the best U.S. president.”

At the parent association meeting, the director of the school explains what needs to be done in order for our high school to add the last two grades and become a real high school.  Right now, there are four grades, meaning that it is not a complete high school, which should have six.  The director is new to Danfili this year and has already made enormous changes to the school.  All of the students now arrive on time and the parent association is working on building latrines for students and faculty.  Many people want the last two grades to be added to the school because right now, students must move to Ngaoundal or Tibati to finish their studies.  This means that many students stop after they receive their B.P.C.  The parent association decides to ask the mayor of Ngaoundal for help building the classrooms, but to also start to raise money from everyone in Danfili.  At the meeting, I see many familiar faces.  There is a group of about 20-30 people in Danfili who are very motivated to develop their village.  I have gotten to know most of them because they tend to be involved in every sector of development.  Many are in the parent association, involved in community health work, and also involved in the effort to bring a microfinance bank to Danfili.

One of the people who I see there is my friend, Fadi.  She is the only woman at the meeting, but that is not unusual for her.  Although Danfili is her village, she spent a significant amount of time in both Yaounde and Douala, speaks perfect French, and is not intimidated by the group of men.  She has one daughter at the high school who she hopes will continue her studies until University.  We walk back to the hospital together and talk about the problems that we are facing with the microfinance project.  Upon arriving to the hospital, we see that finally the women have arrived.  There are about twenty women sitting in the main hall waiting to have their babies vaccinated.  Benedicte, another nurse, sits in the hall and calls the mothers one by one.  She hopes to finish quickly before her own baby wakes up and disturbs her work. 

I have my presentation ready, but calls to my translator won’t go through.  Luckily, Fadi is there and agrees to be my translator for the morning.  I grab my drawings of the Care Group model and head out to the hall.  I easily grab the women’s attention by introducing myself in Fulfulde.  It’s not every day they get to see the white lady struggle through five sentences in Fulfulde!  Whether I’ve pronounced everything correctly or not is unclear, but they laugh appreciatively when I tell them, “That is all of my Fulfulde!  Now I will speak in French and Fadi will translate.”  We spend about twenty minutes explaining the model to the mothers who seem to understand and be receptive to the idea.  I am slightly disappointed that we don’t have any questions or volunteers on the spot, but am overall happy with how the presentation went.  I stay at the hospital a bit longer with the chief of the center and the nurses.  There is one mother who seems to speak some French, seems quite confident, and has a big healthy baby!  I try to befriend her to rope her into being a volunteer in our Care Groups.  I never quite get around to pitching the idea, but end up holding her fat, happy baby while she visits friends.  Finally, they head out and I observe the chief of the health center doing consultations.  He is speaking with a man who suspects that his wife tried to give herself an abortion.  For me, the conversation highlights the need for men as partners work here.

Today I am lucky to get a visit from the Peace Corps staff in Ngaoundere as they pass through.  They stop at the health center to give me some documents and I meet one of the staff members’ baby girl.  After a quick visit, they head to Tibati and I head home.  On the way, I stop to check in on my friend Sadjo.  I have information on bee-keeping from another PCV’s presentation to give her husband, who hopes to get involved in apiculture.  The previous week, a pot with hot food fell on her two-year old’s foot and I also check on how he is doing.  They have decided to use traditional methods to treat the foot, which means putting mashed up seaweed of some kind on the burns every day. 

Today is a quick visit because I’m starving and want to get home to eat before heading out again.  When I get back, Missira and Charifa are back from school, but Grandma is still out working.  They haven’t eaten since the morning so I make them some spaghetti and we sit together and eat.  They tell me how school went and what they need to study tonight.  Missira sits quietly and eats, while energetic Charifa dances around, accidently dropping pasta on the floor.  When we’ve finished, they start their chores and I head out to visit friends.

On my way down our road, I pass a few of the men who hang out there most days.  We have a routine.  They always say hi and ask where I am going (in Fulfulde).  Sometimes they add to the conversation just to make me practice more.  I run into one of our neighbors, an Al Hadji, who likes to joke that I have three husbands.  Today he asks how they are doing and if I have problems with fighting amongst them.  I laugh and tell him they are doing well before heading to my friend’s house.  My friend, Aissatou, is the third wife of one of the wealthiest Al Hadji’s in Danfili.  She is from Douala, speaks great French, and loves being able to access the Internet on her smart phone.  We sit and talk for about an hour.  I try to help her find the previous volunteer, a good friend of hers, on Facebook, but unfortunately the service isn’t great and we can’t connect.  She knows a good deal more about smart phones than I do and is hoping to get a tablet soon to connect to Facebook and What’sApp.  After giving up, we sit and talk and somehow the conversation leads to having children.  I tell her that I’m not even positive that I want to give birth to my own kids and have thought a lot about adoption.  She cannot believe it and tries to convince me that I have to give birth to at least one child.  After all, she explains, God is the one who decides.  Then she gets a kick out of imagining me deciding to have one child and giving birth to twins.

Around 4:30pm, I head back to my house to prepare for my Fulfulde lesson at 5pm.  Unfortunately, my tutor has been called to do other work and at 5:30, the lesson gets canceled.  I head to the market and run into another of the men who hangs out on my street on the way.  He speaks French and always asks for something to read.  Months ago when he initially asked, I asked him what type of thing he wanted to read.  He said, “Anything!  I just love reading and learning new things!”  We talk for a while and he explains that he is actually not from Danfili.  He is from the Extreme-North and part of the ethnic group called the Toupouri.  He tells me that most people from his village join the military because they are tall and strong.  He wasn’t able to do the same because of a politic situation at the time that he would have enrolled. 

At the market, I pick up my phone battery that has been charging there and pay 100CFA (20 cents).  The man who runs the boutique is always incredibly friendly, but mostly speaks Fulfulde.  We chat a bit and he tells me that now I understand Fulfulde.  During the past year, he has been learning how to write so that he can write customers’ names on their batteries.  My name is pretty strange to people here, so I go by “Eliza”.  He has written, “ELZA” on my battery.  On the way back, I see a man wearing a Packer’s jersey!  I try to stealthily take a photo, but alas he is too far away and I am too tired to try to explain why I need a picture of his shirt.

Before settling down at home for the night, I stop by my friend and colleague, Asta’s, house.  She has been at home for the past two weeks because her eldest daughter was very ill and passed away last week.  Their family has been coming to visit and pay their respects.  She is exhausted from all of the work and emotional stress.  Because she hasn’t been able to make it out to her field to harvest, she has also lost a good amount of her peanut crop this year.  In spite of her exhaustion, she sits and talks with me for a while.  She asks how our Care Group project is going and how the presentation went this morning.  We talk about our next steps.  I don’t stay long and one of the little girls who lives with them, Uani, walks me home.  When we arrive, Grandma says that since it’s already dark, Missira and Charifa need to walk Uani home. 

The girls do a bit more housework before bursting into my house with their schoolbags.  Every weeknight, they have gotten in the habit of studying at my house for an hour or so.  Tonight, Missira reads over her biology notes and Charifa practices French and math.  They show me what they learned at school and point out where they got 10 out of 10.  Hawa rolls around on my floor playing with Peanut and repeating random French phrases that she hears us say.  After a little snacking and chatting, I need some alone time and send them to bed in Da’s house.  It’s 9pm.  I close my door, watch an episode of 30 Rock, and check what needs to be done tomorrow.  After heating up water, I take a quick bucket bath, pull down my mosquito net, and finally go to sleep.

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Adventures haa Ngesa (in the field)

After a year of begging, they finally let me go out to the field and help harvest peanuts!  The field is about an hour outside of town and man, that sun is hot.  After half a day, my water was gone and I was ready to head back to town.  Props to all of my Cameroonian friends who do this every day.

Nyadon's brothers and I out in their field 
In Grandma's peanut field

Nyadon carrying some of the peanuts we picked back from the field

Another of Nyadon's brothers on his way to pick up the rest of the peanuts with the bike

Dry season descending on the brousse of Danfili

I swear this isn't edited.  It's actually this color.

Victoria, the PCV in Tibati, visiting Danfili





Fete de Mouton (Eid)

Me in downtown Danfili (Photo cred: Justin) 
Downtown Danfili (Photo cred: Justin)
Men of Danfili gathered in the field where they pray on the day of the Fete de Mouton (Eid)



The majority of the men in Danfili were gathered here on the day of the fete

The grio (town crier) collecting money for his work during the fete

Hawa and I getting our sifa (henna) done together


The finished product

Our sheep before we ate him

Some of the kiddos and I during our long afternoon of getting sifa done

The girl who drew my sifa and I

After getting my sifa washed off

Grandma, Missira, Charifa, and I with our sheep in the kitchen

Grandma's husband, Nyadon (one of my good friends), and Grandma with our dead mouton.  They are getting ready to skin it.

Some of the kids in their new fete clothes

My new kitten, Peanut!


Nyadon with the sheep's intestines.  He showed me how to braid it like this before preparing it.

My gals (Missira, Charifa, Hawa) and I on the second day of the fete

Feasting on one of the many meals that arrived at my house the day of the fete.  Luckily, kids are always more than willing to help you finish the massive amounts of food.

My counterpart, Asta (on the right), her co-wife (on the left), and myself

Nyadon and I





Friday, September 26, 2014

COSA Formation

Health Worker Formation


Opening our second day of the formation.  We started the formation a month ago and only got through the first day.  It was interrupted because of an emergency measles vaccination campaign.  Between the measles vaccinations and polio vaccinations, it took us a month to reschedule.  Although it didn't go smoothly, the COSA was very insistent that we schedule our second day as soon as possible.  The goal was to give them basic preventative health information since they are representatives of the health center in the community.  We talked about prenatal consultations, giving birth at the hospital, vaccinations, family planning, malaria, malnutrition, and cholera.

COSA members (community health workers) during our formation

One of the men, Awalu, demonstrating how to make ORS (oral rehydration solution) to treat cholera.

My friend, Fadi, explaining ways that we can teach the community about malnutrition.

The two Al Hadjis (rich guys) in the COSA provided lunch for everyone both days.

More of Danfili


Rain rollin into Danfili

C.E.S. (high school) de Danfili

More bird watching (forgot to write down the name, though!)

My office at the hospital with some of the nurse's kiddos.  Until the health center gets fixed up, my office also stores chickens, peanuts, and a moto from time to time, hence the filth.

The new gang chez Da Hawa.  Charifa and Missira will be living with us in Danfili this year to help grandma out.  They are wonderful, sweet girls who are always looking for things they can help me out with. 
Chillin with Hawa.  Her new favorite activity is taking photos so these won't stop anytime soon!

Soda shack in Ngaoundal